Hussein Chalayan is a designer known for his techno-wizardry, his mastery of the architectural, the technological, and the intellectual concept in fashion. Yet this season he did something a little different.

His S/S 2010 show in Paris was refined, luxurious and faintly 30s - he himself emerged at the end of the presentation looking a little like a Poirot/circus master hybrid which confused us a little. But then we looked again at the clothes and the stripped down, minimal pieces allowed this master of the cut to really demonstrated why he's so good at what he does.

There were hints of the Hitchcock heroine in the form of a wiggle dress cinched at the waist. The high-waisted cropped pants had an air of Grace Kelly on her hols. The striped sheers looked Amalfi-ready but the tailored jackets and shifts were the type of classic yet clever which meant that this collection was supremely and unequivocally 2010.

In other news, we want a big hat for next Summer...