With the shadow of the Galliano episode hanging over it, and all eyes waiting to see whether the designer will come out and take his post-show bow at Dior today, Paris fashion week has begun.

And we'd like to talk about Dries Van Noten, because he did something a little different.

Apparently dedicated to 'the liberal woman' this was in many ways a typically Dries collection - a free and easy, eclectic mix of pieces - but the Belgian designer also presented clothes which were, overall, much more muted in tone than we could have expected.

Particularly since this season, Constructivist style pattern, patchworked gold, and 70s references, seemed to be his area of concern.

That said, the clashing print will please the Dries die-hards, but some of the beautifully textured knits and coats (and that black velvet gown) are going to win over new converts.

Images via www.style.com