With Jean Paul Gaultier gone, and Christophe Lemaire now at the the reins of Hermès, all eyes were firmly fixed on this first collection to see what the ex-Lacoste (Lacoste!) designer would do.

In short, nothing that looked too out of step for the luxury house, but there's more to it than that.

Lemaire took a trip for A/W 2011, encompassing notions of aviation, 20s explorers, eastern style caftans and kimono wraps; as well as perfectly utilising that signature Hermès leather in some Earhart inspired caps and beautiful cocooning coats - all in an Autumnal palette punctuated with black.

There were a few misses, a strangely proportioned red suit, we weren't entirely convinced by the Hermès scarf print reworkings, and the boot-trouser-in-one combo left us puzzled, but there was a great deal of work here that we loved, and pieces with massive potential as they evolve in coming seasons.

Images via www.style.com