It’s a Wednesday morning and Valletta is alive. Shoppers press in and out of stores; the tourists dawdle, capturing those obligatory old door shots, and locals linger in their favourite spots. The ‘regulars’ who lean against the Courthouse railings are noisily discussing the election aftermath; the lawyers are surreptitiously watching the girls go by from behind dark shades at Cordina. Republic Street is heaving; and the recently paved Merchant Street is also doing brisk business in clothing and cappuccino whilst tradesmen are busy preparing new premises, or renovating old ones. The old girl is really beginning to feel like a capital city again on these two streets, proudly showing off her newly restored facades and desperately looking forward to evening when she can switch on her floodlights to showcase those dramatic baroque curves.
But two streets a capital city does not make, and whilst the side streets directly adjoining these two big guns seem to be enjoying some of the retail fall-out, Valletta as a whole is still facing a great number of problems. A very low population, the degeneration of buildings, (many of great historical and architectural value) an obsolete infrastructure and a litany of social woes are a mere handful of the key issues. Hardly breaking news, but ME recently uncovered a project that appears to offer up a thought-provoking solution.
The proposal in question is one made some time ago by Entrust, a research project supported by the European Commission that uses the Biccerija area as a case study for the revitalisation of Valletta.
What is interesting about the approach of the Entrust report is that it advocates targeting small areas – or peripheral nodes of the city for active, concentrated conservation, attracting both visitors and residents to specific locations, rather than considering Valletta as one whole target area for regeneration. The benefit of this tactic is that by injecting activity into several separate areas, (preferably quite widely spaced) it potentially invites natural, organic regeneration along the routes between both these, and already existing pockets of activity. Another advantage is that there is scope for the private sector to become involved with this kind of rehabilitation, thereby perhaps addressing some of the issues connected to that age-old problem of funding.



“What are the pictures for?” asks a resident who stops us on the street. We explain ourselves and she is immediately more relaxed. “Oh, I thought you were from the Government. They come around here sometimes measuring, but they never tell us why. We are worried they are going to demolish this block.” Is the government really planning demolition works in this historic area? Or is it yet another case of a bad communication between residents and authorities?
The concept of a nodal approach may have been derived from the Guidelines for a Master plan for Valletta presented by Renzo Piano in 1989. The plan, which was commissioned by the Valletta Rehabilitation Committee set up two years prior, has become famous for the changes it suggested for the City Gate and Opera House. What seems to have gone unnoticed, however, was the identification of five nodes on the edges of Valletta, linking them to the centre by means of proposed pedestrianised routes, vertical links, bus links and ferry services. To date, none of the areas as suggested by Piano have been targeted for rehabilitation.
Delineated for the purpose of the project by Bakery Street, Archbishop Street, Marsamxett, Road, St Sebastian Road, including the coastal area under the English Curtain Wall and St Sebastian Bastion, the Biccerija area was chosen by Entrust as a case study for a number of reasons. It is notoriously one of the worst maintained parts of the city. The number of residents is extremely low; estimated at around 140, and it suffers from an acute social stigma. In spite of this, it also possesses several positive characteristics that count in its favour when one is considering possible ‘attractors’ to the area.
The Biccerija is rich in important historical buildings that are currently vacant; the Auberge of the Anglo-Bavarian Langue is an active place of work, currently undergoing restoration, whilst an entire block of empty apartments faces directly out on the coast, the Fort and the protected inlet of il-Fossa, which would also fall into the catchment area for rehabilitation. With a particular historic fabric – quite distinct architecturally from other parts of Valletta, and its proximity to the sea, the area, despite its shabbiness, is actually very beautiful. Anywhere else in Malta, or abroad, an area like this would have been regenerated years ago.
Father Saviour Grima, the Parish priest for the Mandragg area also accompanied ME around the area, revealing that the problems of the Biccerija area are not dissimilar to those facing his own parishioners. “This is a deprived area.” He says quietly. “Life is difficult for people living here, and many of them feel nobody cares about them.” He reels out a list of social struggles: single parent families living on the breadline, children who don’t attend school, a high rate of teenage pregnancy and drug related crime.
We speak to a couple who live in the core of the Biccerija whose home adjoins a derelict building. “Every time it rains, the water comes in through the roof above the bed.” they say, pointing to a peeling patch in the bedroom ceiling.
“The building next door is making this property dangerous. Someone offered to buy me out, but I don’t want to sell and move. I want to know what can be done about the other property”.
“I know this house is not suitable for my children, and social services agree”. says the woman. “But I need help in finding somewhere else to live – if they find me somewhere I’ll go. In the meantime, they have threatened to take my children away if they find them here, which is a ridiculous situation.”
Over the coming issues, we will be presenting the findings of a specially commissioned M.E. team; delving into the Biccerija’s past, present and possible future. By drawing together information, we aim to open a public discussion on the feasibility, both financial and logistical, of Entrust’s suggestions, and explore the possibility of the revitalisation of both the Biccerija and the capital city of which it is most definitely part.












